All Rounder?

[Forester]

Again, great info, thank you.
I have the quick's guide, just looked at your jig, looks good... A little more than I wanted to spend at the moment... But you get what you pay for and that looks up to the job.
I will be phoning a shop Stickman recommended re arrows... I will have a chat to them about the jigs.
I think I will be able to "Knock an arrow up" , as they say.. I made a few fishing rods up in me time.. All that whipping and hot melt glue for the end ring... Arrows must be similar.
How long dose it take you to complete an arrow?
I sent off for my quiver today....plus an brace.
I plumed for the trad back quiver in the end complete with fringe edges!
As I get into hunting I will probably get something less likely to snag on twigs. (Being an ex Tree Surgeon, I spent most of my working life snagged and wiped by twigs, comes with the territory!)
I have shot using a tab, but fancy a glove now, I was going to try a trad single seam... Quick's NH22.
Over the years I have made all sorts of stuff for hunting (with a rifle) But thought to get myself going with A bow I would get the basics, then make a few bits up myself, starting with arrows.
Knowing me, I will probably end up caring my arrows in a hollowed out branch from a Birch tree!
Anyway... Thanks for the tips...What a great forum.

Forester.

[freefeet]

How long dose it take you to complete an arrow?

A lot of it is preparation. If you're going with wood...

* weigh the dozen and get 6 as close to each other as possible. This is what i use. Really good little scales, cheap and very accurate.

* straighten them. This is the time consuming bit of wood for me.

* cut to length - use a sharp knife and roll on a hard surface as you cut in to the centre or the shaft. Takes less than a min per shaft.

* taper the ends - with taper jig in electric drill - less than a minute per shaft.

* varnish to seal the shafts. Takes a while as they have to dry between coats. Make up a wood block with holes that you can shove one of the tapers into to hold the shaft upright while it dries.

* fletch - probably about 10 min per shaft using Bohning fletch tape. You'll get quicker as you get used to doing it but take your time at first.

* prepare points - take a little dremel grinder bit and rough up the inside of the point. Clean out with cotton bud and meths.

* lightly score point taper on shaft. Apply hot melt and shove the points on. The roughing up and scoring will allow the glue to bond properly - else your points will pull off when you pull your arrows out of the targets.

* glue on the nocks. Make sure they're on straight before allowing the glue to set - less than a minute each.

Check they're all straight again and go shoot 'em.

The hardest bit is getting the helical jig to sit the fletch properly onto the shaft. Play around with it until the whole of the feather base is against the shaft, then start sticking them on. The shorter the fletching you use the easier it is to get it to sit the whole length, which is why i use 4 x 3 inch feathers instead of 3 x 4 inch.

Think that's about it for wood.

Carbons are a different process. Far easier to put together and last far longer when they are.

[wayofthebow]

those poc shafts will probably work prety well id imagine.
i havent tested poc shafts yet as i dont have the money for any, but shooting platinum shafts on my lightning, it would probably benefit from a slightly heavier shaft id say. plus it'll keep the setup all traditional.

[freefeet]

those poc shafts will probably work prety well id imagine.
i havent tested poc shafts yet as i dont have the money for any, but shooting platinum shafts on my lightning, it would probably benefit from a slightly heavier shaft id say. plus it'll keep the setup all traditional.

Your lightning is as traditional as carbon arrows are. Fibre glass is basically the same thing as carbon fibre - just different fibre - both fibres are modern products, nothing traditional about them. Traditional only refers to the design, stick and string instead of wheels and cams.

Don't get confused between primitive and traditional, very different things.

If i was shooting a primitive bow (which i'd like to one day) then i would go with primitive (wood) arrows, but as i shoot modern, high speed, centre shot recurves made with modern glues, modern laminates and modern production techniques then i shoot arrows to match - carbons.

[freefeet]

And heavier shafts are not an advantage at all. The aim is to keep shaft weight to a minimum, whether wood, alu, or carbon and to get the front end weight up as high as possible. That's where the advantage is.

Read the Ashby reports...

http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/Dr.-Ed-Ashby-W26.aspx

Specifically on EFOC...

http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/PR/Ashby_EFOC.pdf

Lots of stuff to learn, and even more to experiment and play around with. I've been messing with Ashby's stuff and setups for over 6 months now and still learning - all great fun to play around with as you get to shoot your bow lots while you do it. One thing i will confirm from what i've experienced so far... up your FOC to EFOC, get your tune sorted and the advantage is clear to see. These things fly beautifully and penetrate like you wouldn't believe.

I used to be an aeronautical engineer and when i read Ashby i found someone who spoke about flying things like an aeronautical engineer does. The guy knows what he's talking about.

[wayofthebow]

dude....

[Forester]

Tell you what fellers, lots to this archery... Very interesting... Getting loads of tips, thanks for all this info.
Iv'e read the tips on this thread again... Great stuff.
I will be getting my POC shafts this week, but will try some Carbon one day.
My bows are laminated wood and glass coverd so allthough trad in desinge, sort of morden in make up. But I like to think as the Arow shoots down the sidevof the bow its wood on wood...well, got a layer of varnish as well!

Good news my shooting coming on a bundle with the coaching, hitting them gold's with the club recurves ...with a site.
Ill be using my bows this Saturday instinctive... Should be good.
I picked up some Romany Marsh sheep's wool last week and made two string silencers, plus some nice trad spun Marsh wool, wipped it on the ends of the bow string... "Interesting"

Thanks all

[Cromm]

"Interesting"
Good or Bad?